Cutting Tree Roots Close to Buildings

Cutting Tree Roots Close to Buildings

By Kay Argyle

“Question: do you think we need to professionally trim the tree roots near houses?”

I looked for information on cutting aboveground/surface tree roots. I’d say let’s have someone cut the root headed under Laraine’s porch.  Any others will need careful consideration prior.

The most common advice was Don’t.  The same options were suggested repeatedly, the first being to put up with it, which in a lawn doesn’t solve the mutual damage between roots and lawn mowers.  The others were:

(1) Avoid it in the first place by careful choice of species and not planting in clay.  Oh, well.  A little late for that.  Regular soil coring (aeration) might help.

(2) Remove the trees.  Forget it.

(3) Raise the soil level enough to bury the roots.  The soil level around the buildings is already six inches to a foot higher than it should be, raising our risks of flooding and giving burrowing insects access to unit walls.

(4) Remove the lawn.  Usage dictates that the lawn east of the common house and the grass under the clotheslines need to stay. The lawn behind the common house (except for that under the clotheslines) and between the c.h. and unit 14 (both sides of the sidewalk) could be changed to something else, but to do so without creating new problems will be a challenge.  (If people are interested, I’d like to be in on discussions.) 

(5) A half dozen sites grudgingly admitted root removal was possible, and said that if you feel you MUST, here’s how to do it hopefully without killing the tree or leaving it unstable, but no guarantee.  I’ve excerpted several, below.  To summarize:  Only a little at a time, roots furthest from the tree, and in winter or early spring.

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https://bovees.com/removing-tree-roots-above-ground/

The number of roots you can cut depends on how many roots are exposed outside of the drip line. As long as the roots that are exposed are outside of the dripline, they are safe to cut and will not weaken the stability of the tree.

If you must cut roots inside the drip line, it is imperative that you follow the rule of multiplying the diameter of the truck by 10. This formula will let you cut roots inside the drip line at a safe distance from the trunk without weakening the stability of the trunk.

For example, if the diameter of the trunk is 10”, then you would multiply 10 x 10 to give you 100 inches. This means that the closest exposed roots you can cut to the trunk will be 100 inches or 8.3 feet.

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https://www.dreamworkstrees.com/how-to-safely-cut-tree-roots/

When Should I Cut the Roots of a Tree?

Early spring and winter are the best time of year to cut tree roots. This gives them ample time to heal and regain strength.

How Many Roots Can I Cut?

It is healthy to remove around 20% of the tree roots that are above ground at once. Following this, it helps to wait 2-3 years to ensure that the tree recovers fully before cutting the roots again. Also, it is wise to prune the roots only if it is necessary and unavoidable. Otherwise, you could end up damaging its health.

Step-by-Step Guide for Cutting the Tree Roots

Find the root that poses a threat to the nearby structures or trees. If it is a part of a large root, talk to a qualified arborist before cutting or pruning. If it is a smaller root, you could try pruning it yourself.

Dig to expose the root completely to get a clear picture and mark the area. Use a root saw for the task and be sure to fill the hole after cutting the roots.

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https://www.seattletimes.com/life/tree-roots-coming-to-the-lawn-surface-can-be-a-real-headache/

There are several reasons tree roots come up to the surface. Although some kinds of trees, such as poplars and ornamental cherries, are prone to produce surface roots, usually they’re a sign of poor soil conditions. Heavy clay or compacted soils lack the air and moisture necessary for proper root growth below ground, so roots are forced to come up to the surface to find what they need for survival.

Unfortunately, as the tree grows, surface roots also increase in size, and if they are on a lawn they can become so large they can make mowing difficult, if not impossible.

Covering surface roots with soil won’t solve the problem. Adding too much soil at one time can suffocate tree roots, while adding a bit at a time is pointless because the soil simply dissipates and disappears into the lawn.

If necessary, surface roots can be removed, but it must be done properly or it could harm the tree. During the dormant season, remove only one large root or two smaller ones per year. Allow at least 10 inches of distance from the trunk for every inch of the diameter at ground level before making the cut.

To prevent the likelihood of disease problems, first dig a trench around and under the root; then use a clean, sharp lopper, or in the case of very large roots, a pruning saw to make a clean cut. Finally, do not apply pruning paint. If all goes well, new roots will form and grow from the cut end.

Of course, the best longterm solution is to remove the lawn where the surface roots are causing a problem and turn the area into a garden bed. You’ll have a wonderful new garden space to enjoy and you won’t be forced to spend hours of backbreaking work every dormant season removing roots and/or replacing broken mower blades.